Rainy Day Wish List

I'm sitting near a window watching the rain descend in sheets outside. The brisk air (experienced for just a second earlier this morning) feels more like late October than early September.

What's a girl to do on a dreary day like this, but stay in and scour the Internet for beauty products? As most of you already know, I like to make some of my skin care and hair products (like my herbal hair tonics and lavender/rose/aloe vera facial mists), but once in a while I'll find a company that makes the same type of product completely organic (just like mine) and already in a pretty little bottle.

That's super convenient for travel (and lazy spells).

Thus far, I've found several products that I'd L-O-V-E to add to my collection. I'll share them with you. If you know of other natural brands with great products, please share them with me.

Benedetta
I heard about this brand from Martha, who follows this blog and gives me great feedback and product recommendations. She said she's been using Benedetta for years and its done wonders for her skin. I decided to check out the website. They had a lot of products that piqued my interest, but their 100% botanical Sacred Soap made my wish list.

This body wash has Black Soap, an ancient soap known by the indigenous people of Africa, as its main ingredient. Sacred Soap also contains pure virgin Palm Kernel Oil, unrefined Shea Butter (great for my dry skin) and Ash, a natural source of lye. Organic Rosemary and Lemongrass is used for scent. That sounds yummy.

Besides the obvious cleansing and moisturizing benefits of this soap, I also like that it's made by a women's co-operative following organic standards and fair trade guidelines. I'm going to have to drop some hints about this one before Christmas.

Anita Grant
Okay, I have to admit that I wanted almost EVERYTHING on this site. But before I get into their products, let me just give a shout out to a company who's not just boasting "green" but living it: From using only fairly traded botanicals to relying solely on 100% renewal energy to run their business. They only use packaging that is 100% recyclable and/or compostable. I feel a tear coming on. I hope they open a US store soon (they in the UK).

Anyway, back to my wish list. I struggled with choosing just one thing to list here, but if I was forced to choose JUST ONE, it would be their Camellia Kissi Oil.

This wonder product is a clear, light, non greasy anti-oxidant used for centuries by the Japanese to improve the overall texture of nails, scalp and combination skin. Camellia Kissi oil is cold pressed from the seeds of the Camellia Kissi plant, using traditional Japanese methods of extraction. It's easily absorbed, has no detectable odour. (This info is straight from their website).

Camellia Kissi Oil is a rich source of plant collagen that helps lessen scars and works wonders on stretch marks. Camellia Kissi contains Vitamins A, B, C, E and Polyphenol, natural antioxidants that safeguards skin from the damaging effects of UV/environmental exposure and free radicals.

It's said to visibly diminish fine lines, acne scarring & reduce the appearance of pores. And as a bonus, it's wonderful as a natural, non-greasy shine enhancer/moisturizer on curly and tightly coiled hair. Camellia Kissi oil is the most penetrative of all natural oils. So, let's break this down. This miracle oil can be used around the eyes, all over the face, on the body and in the hair. Sweet. I want it. I love products that work head to toe. How much does shipping from the UK cost?

Oyin Handmade
I've been hearing so much about this hand-crafted, natural brand on Twitter and from my fellow naturally curly-haired friends for some time now. I think I need to break down and buy something. I've heard that their organic and natural products are made in small batches to ensure freshness. They use unrefined shea butter, pure cocoa butter, vitamin E, organic aloe vera juice, and herbal infusions, but no petroleum, SLS or silicones. Good job.

I've pegged several products I'd like to try, but the one that really speaks to me is their Juices and Berries Nourising Herbal Leave-in. It's simply spring water, infused with a variety of herbs known to "help stimulate the scalp and encourage hair growth; vegetable ingredients for detangling, moisture and suppleness; vegetable glycerine for humectancy and shine; and an essential oil blend nutritious to the scalp."



I make something very similar at home by infusing distilled water with dried burdock root, coltsfoot, horsetail and nettle. I use it as a final rinse after washing my hair, or as a spritzer for moisture and shine between washes. But, sometimes I don't feel like the effort. This product would be the perfect substitute. And unlike my version, this one is naturally preserved with grapefruit seed extract and citric acid. I don't have to use it within two days or pour it down the sink.

Aveda
Okay, this product I chose from Aveda isn't exotic or new, but I'd still like to try it. Their Pure ComfortTM Eye Makeup Remover sounds like the perfect natural alternative to drug store versions.

And this one includes organic camomile and cucumber - both are great for soothing the skin and reducing puffiness. And it's safe for contact wearers.








Kiehl's
Kiehl’s has a new skin care collection I'm simply dying to try. Their Acai Damage-Repairing Skincare collection. As is obvious from the name, the entire line is based on 100% Organic Açaí Berry, the much talked-about Super-Antioxidant.



Kiele's promises, "This collection helps skin repair the visible effects of both physical and environmental damage, while it also helps to stimulate skin’s natural renewal process and restores skin’s tone, texture, and elasticity.." Sounds good to me.

The collection consists of: Damaging minimizing cleanser, Damage protecting toning mist, Damage correcting moisturizer and Damage repairing serum. I want them all.

Have you tried any of the products I have listed here? Can you give feedback? Would love to hear from you.

My Belated Birthday Present

This weekend I was finally able to schedule friend time with my buddy, Rin. She has been trying to get my birthday present to me for a month. What did she get me? The awesome book pictured above. What a wonderful resource for someone who loves to know what's the deal with cosmetic ingredients.

Let me tell you, there are a lot of things going into our beauty products that shouldn't be in there. I feel so empowered by this book. No more standing in the drug store aisle with my cell phone calling a cosmetics formulator. I did this often with my friend, Kelley. Mostly, I spelled things and asked, "Is that something really bad???"

Thanks so much, Rin. It will get lots of use.

Women Have Expiration Dates

On my way to the beach last week, I stopped in a wine shop somewhere along the Jersey shore to pick up a bottle of red. I was eagerly anticipating evenings spent languishing on a deck with Eat, Pray, Love (my favorite book) in one hand and a spicy glass of Syrah in the other. Waves crashing in the background.

Three jovial, big bellied guys in their gray shirts boasting their fave sports teams argued over some upcoming game of which I knew nothing. And cared even less. I browsed the wine racks as the friendly debate grew louder in the background.

"You're crazy! He couldn't bring them to a win if you shot all the players on the other team and handed him the ball!"

"Well, they pay him a trillion dollars a year - that says he's a valuable player."

"No it doesn't. It just means they've got too much money on their hands!"

This went back and forth for several minutes until the conversation abruptly (and unexpectedly) turned to movies. Rather high brow movies for this particular crowd. Exposing all of my stereotypes here, I'm going to say I was shocked when they started bantering around award winners and much talked about international films. Stuff that swept through Cannes.

This was a conversation I could engage in, so never one to be shy, I jumped right in. The conversation took all sorts of strange twists and turns, finally landing us on Holocaust films for some reason.

And then someone mentioned "The Reader" (which I'm ashamed to admit I've yet to see). The three guys who would have looked far more at home in a beer store than a wine store, expounded on the intricate film making details the director brought to the project. They discussed the sensitive subject matter and Kate 's "amazing performance."

And then, out of nowhere, one of the men said, "She did a nude scene in that film, you know." There was an air of disbelief in his voice. Another man chimed in. "I know! That surprised me."

At this point I was confused. Film stars often strip down for roles, even if it doesn't make much sense. Gratuitous nudity in Hollywood annoys me at times.

Then the third man, the most rotund of the group made it very clear what all the disbelief was about: "This is probably her last nude scene. She's too old for that stuff now."

My mouth fell open. I could not believe what I was hearing. Was this fat, nasty man (sorry, I'm pissed now) saying women over a certain age should never be caught naked? May I point out that he was middle aged and as I previously mentioned, lacked any form of sex appeal. His chances of seeing ANYONE naked seemed slim in my opinion.

The nerve!


The lovely Ms. Winslet is 34. I repeat, THIRTY-FOUR. I've got her by several years and just for the record, I look HOT naked. Yeah, I said it. Everything is exactly where it should be and standing at attention. On a size 6 frame. Hotness is not an age. Or a size, for that matter.

But for a moment, let's forgot how hot I am. And you are. Let's just look at the idea that men STILL, to this very day, judge us like apples in the market. Our value intrinsically tied to how "fresh" we are. Just picked is best. Anything past early puberty should retire to a field and die.

Is that why Hollywood usually pairs 50-year-old male actors with 23 year-old female actors? Please tell me you ladies are as appalled by the wine store conversation as I was...

Make it Beautiful

A very wise makeup artist once told me (when I was an assistant), "Always make the model look pretty - colors need to coordinate, everything needs to be blended perfectly - even if you're shooting in black and white; or you're only seeing the side of the model's face. The client needs to see a pretty picture before them or they won't hire you back."

I get emails from aspiring (or new makeup artists) asking me all sorts of questions about color selection, lighting's effect on makeup, etc. If I could pass along one great piece of advice, it would be what that wise makeup artist told me. No matter what you do, always make the model look pretty for the client.

That would seem like an obvious and some of you out there may be saying, "Um, yeah. Isn't that what you're hired to do?" But makeup artist can create makeup looks that aren't anything special to the human eye, but are amazing in a photo.

Take a black and white shot, for instance. It's all about tones. I could honestly create a look on a model that resembles a page from Bozo's Beauty Manual, but when the shot is viewed, it's absolutely gorgeous. Why? Black and white photos aren't about colors, but tones and textures.

As long as I have a good command of those two elements I can mix warm and cool tones until it's scary; it doesn't matter. The shot will still be pretty. But my client (the one paying me!) is freaking out because she/he can't see what I can see. It disturbs them that the model doesn't look pretty.

Take the picture above. This is how the model looked right after I finished with her makeup. As you can see, I took time to seriously blend her eye shadows and line her eyes for drama. All of the colors compliment each other.

But, honestly, since she was shot in a different light (see picture below), I didn't really need to work that hard. Slapping on any dark color and blending a bit would have worked okay (not wonderful, put passable).

However, armed with the knowledge that it stresses clients/photographers to see something less than appealing in the makeup department, I worked like we were shooting in day light. Her skin needed to be flawless. Her lips just so. Her blush exactly on her cheekbone to give the definition that would be needed for the dramatic lighting that was used.

In the end, I was very happy with the shot. As was the rest of the crew. As a makeup artist (or a mom on date night!), remember the effort you put into your craft (or your own makeup) will be apparent.

If your livelihood depends on your makeup strokes, it's imperative that those signing your paycheck are very happy with what's before their eyes.

Glowing Summer Skin

This summer my skin is the healthiest it's ever been, which is surprising considering the number of skin care products I'm constantly testing for this blog.

In my "pre-natural products" stage when I was busy following the latest trends instead educating myself on the hazards found in many mainstream cosmetics, I bought department store brands in large quantities.

And as an editorial makeup artist, I used to receive bags stuffed with high end products sent to my agency - gratis. Out of all of the mainstream brands I tried, Clarins was the best for my skin. But the cost was a bit much, even with the salary I was making then. It would be out of the question now.

My exodus from the offerings found at the Bloomingdale's counters led me to my current destination - indie beauty brands. I love brands that begin with nourishing botanicals as their base. Aveda and DHC come to mind immediately as the biggest players in the market.

The smaller, newer businesses with a commitment to natural ingredients are entering the market with force, educating consumers to old school wisdom. We are being reminded that simple ingredients like Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Aloe Vera are wonderful for the skin.

I prefer products made from things I recognize on the label. I don't care if the shelf life is slightly less than the pumped up, chemical versions available.

Every week the mailman brings me a box of something new - a moisturizer a company wants feedback on; a primer that claims to smooth out wrinkles and brighten the area around the eyes; a sparkly new mineral based lipgloss.

It's great fun. Most of the products I get are really good. The formulators are working hard to bring quality merchandise to market, even if they don't have the budget of Estee Lauder.

This summer I'm crooning over Skin eScentuals Aloe Jelly Face Moisturizer and GeoGrafx Revitalizing Night Serum. I've put other sampling on hold (for the past six weeks) just to be sure this combination is what's making my skin look like gold. It is. I normally advocate using all one brand of skin care, but I've found that advice not quite as vital when working with all natural ingredients.

For instance, GeoGrafx Night Serum is made of nothing but nourishing oils - apricot kernel oil, rose hip seed oil, evening primrose, wheat germ oil and others.

While the Aloe Jelly Face Moisturizer starts with Aloe Vera and adds many of the same essential oils that are found in the Night Serum. But the texture is different, more like a light weight gel. I use the face moiturizer under my makeup in the daytime.

And apply the night serum just before bed to fight those fast approaching lines and wrinkles. You can see from the picture above - my skin is thriving.

But I have a pile of skin care in a box waiting for review. The last two I tried caused break outs. I didn't write about them. I simply told the manufacturers that my experience with their product wasn't good.

In the fall, I'll put aside my beloved combo to again do reviews. But for now, I'm enjoying the healthy glow.

What's your favorite skin care product?

Killer Color

The beach was wonderful. I spent several days with a friend enjoying the sun and the sea. It was just what I needed.

But back to work now.

The picture above is from a recent shoot with a local model, Ashley. I wanted to create something that was both pretty and eerie. Choosing to shoot through the glass with the light on in the back gave it that "Hitchcock" feel.

Aren't you just a little afraid for her? The look is supposed to imply she's either going to lose her mind shortly; or get attacked by the strange neighbor who always carries a weed wacker.

I know. I probably should work this out in counseling, not photos. But some day I'd like to write scripts. This is good practice. LOL

Anyway, the idea was to keep the makeup pretty, with an emphasis on her blue eyes. Normally, to accentuate blue eyes, I don't slather them in more blue tones. Contrasting colors work best - bronzes, golds, etc. But the idea here was to create a mood.

So, I went with a heavy dose of light blue eye shadow and navy eye liner. Going this strong on eyes demands a lighter hand on the rest of her makeup. Hence the peachy pink lips and light dusting of blush. I darkened her brows just a little and gave them more definition, like the actresses in 50's thrillers.

Our inspiration, Susan Hayward:


So, the above is our (thanks, Paul!) updated, colorful version of a psychological thriller.

If you'd like to try something this intense on your eyes for a glam night out (it works best in a dimly lit room; And be sure to wear a killer gown that hugs curves), remember to practice before the actual night.

Blending is key. And go very light on lips and blush. A softly hued lip gloss would be perfect. And stay away from the guy with the weed wacker.

How many of you out there have braved a look with intense eye color?